Well it started off as another shitty rainy day watching movies in the hostel in the morning. Me sitting around thinking should I stay or should I go? See there’s also opportunity to go Citrus picking in Mareeba ??? that’s probably not right, but it’s a bit further north except they aren’t quite sure when they will be starting yet, I think she said monday or tuesday this week? I think I really need to leave the hostel but it’s still a hard decision to make knowing that I will definitely start work Monday morning bright and early if I stay. Plus I can surf here. But I still want to go. I don’t know.
Anyways after watching Zoolander, they were going to put another movie in but I couldn’t take it I had to get out of there so I hopped into the Haybird and left. I wasn’t really sure where I was going but as I was driving it got sunny again and I ended up at Alexandra Heads to check out the surf and it was going off. There were tons of people in the water. So I went back to the hostel and fixed the tiny ding that I had in the tail of my board making it awesome once again.
As I was heading out Austen came back saying he’d just been out front (at the beach) and it was shit, onshore wind. Last time there was an onshore wind the guy at the surf shop told us to go to Kings Beach so we headed down there because I really wanted to surf and could not sit around the hostel any longer. So we drove down and when we got there it was shit. So we left to look for somewhere better. We stopped off at Coolum and it looked okay but not great and started debating Noosa. I hate Noosa and didn’t really want to go but didn’t really want to surf Coolum, all I need is some nice small green waves to catch and so we decided on Noosa Main Beach. Not quite as big, busy or rocky as the National Park where the guys from the hostel go to surf.
So we drove up to Noosa and it wasn’t awesome but it was totally surfable and I was catching some good ones too. It was awesome until one wave closed out on me or something I don’t even really remember but it was pretty shallow and I took a tumble and thought I was going to get whacked in the head with the board – thankfully I’ve taken to heart something I learned when I took my first surf lesson when you fall protect your head. And my board went flying and I guess stuck in the sand and cracked but I didn’t even notice at first. I was worried about my board but when I surfaced and saw it floating there I thought oh thank god it’s okay, but when I got back on and started paddling around I noticed a big crack on the right side of the nose. Oh shit. Not another one. Then I noticed the crack on the other side of the board. It didn’t look as bad until I felt the side of the nose and it was really bad and for a second I thought it had cracked all the way across the nose.
So I headed back to shore rather upset that my board was now injured. Seriously. And needed to be fixed. It looks so bad and I got Luke to look at it when I got back to the hostel and it needs to be fixed professionally. Shit. Cuz I really need this now. So I went down to the surf shop but it was closed. So now I have to wait and how can I surf without my board?
It’s terrible. My poor surfboard. And I was doing so good too. What will I ride tomorrow? What will I do tomorrow if I can’t surf? The tragedy of it all… 
Last Monday I loaded up the car with surfboards and Livia, Raggie, Emily, Austin (this English guy who’s an awesome wakeboarder and pretty decent surfer) and I headed down to Kings Beach in Caloundra to go surfing. We were going to go up to Noosa but when we rented Livia’s board the guy at the shop seemed really disgusted that we wanted to go there like, Noosa was good yesterday but with the onshore wind it’s gonna be really bad you should check out Kings Beach there’s some good waves out there today, but I mean if you want to go to Noosa the tides going out it’ll be choppy and rough but it’s up to you I guess… So we were like uh.. ok let’s go to Kings Beach. And it was really awesome!
The waves were still really heavy and the first time we went out and I tried to get out back I got so worked and just hit over and over with the wave it took a couple before I got my board and managed to touch bottom and get the fuck outta there. But then I tried again and I guess there’d been a lull in the swell or something but before I knew it I was out the back! I was so stoked. And then I thought man I am going to eat shit if I actually catch any of these waves and I don’t really like being out there alone because I’m always afraid I’ll get caught in a rip and pulled away or something. So there was this guy near me and I was like hey catchinany? and he was like hey, is that a canadian accent I decent? turns out he’s from Edmonton or something originally Saskatoon, so we had a bit of a chat and then I saw Austin and paddled over. We hung out chatting for a bit and then decided to move further in as the waves were breaking closer to shore. and I missed a couple and then there was one coming for me but I was in the wrong spot it started breaking right behind me and I thought I could either just catch the wave or try and get out of the way and out the back but I knew it would just slam me so I caught it anyway even though it had already broken. I really just want to catch one properly and ride the face you know? After that I took a break.
When we tried again we went out with Austin and he showed us a good spot to paddle out and I was paddling around a bit almost caught two waves and then the third came in and I thought fuck yeah this is mine! So I started paddling and looking behind to make sure I angled my board the right way and the wave caught me and I think I didn’t paddle quite hard enough because I was right up there at the top of the wave and I was looking down and it looked so far down I held back for a second or maybe it was already to late but then I just flew headfirst off the board and went flying down towards my board which had made it to the bottom of the wave already and I thought for sure I was going to faceplant right on the back of my board (I seriously thought that would be the end with the force of the wave) – luckily I landed right behind it but man I got worked like I was inside a washing machine after that one it was rough. Livia and I decided we probably need to find smaller waves but oh what a rush that was awesome. I’m was so stoked after that day.
Today I went wakeboarding – my first time ever – it was pretty fun considering I suck balls and it took me about 5 tries to actually stand up and then after that only managing to just barely stand up before falling on my ass and biting it. But I did have to leave before my hour was up because Luke, who works at the hostel and drove us there fell after hitting a kicker (or ramp) and slashed his face with his wakeboard. Its a really bad gash and we had to go and take him to the medical centre. But I got a voucher for a free session so I can always go back.
And as far as the wakeboarding park goes, its the weirdest thing ever, its a little lake and they have like an automated tow rope thing set up so you wait in a line at the dock and then the guys give you a tow rope and you grab on it pulls you up and you do a circuit or two or whatever around the lake and then let go. No boat. Its weird. But I’ll probably go back I’d like to be able to make it around the lake.
And this girl Pip says shes probably going down to Big Day Out tomorrow and that you can just buy tickets of scalpers or something at the door and I’m seriously thinking about doing it. It would be fun and its a big Aussie thing and thanks to my decision to go Wakeboarding this morning I snapped myself out of the rut that I’ve been stuck in lately and now I want to go out and have fun again (where before I was being really lame). So its all good.
And yesterday surfing I managed to get out past the break water so I was stoked. Its really hard though, you go out over and over again and it feels like you’re just doing the same old stuff and not really getting better at all but I reckon every day you go out and paddle around and get slammed by waves your arms are getting stronger and you get more used to being in the swell and learn to take it better. So I think little by little every day I am getting better even if it seems like I’m mosty just riding the white junk like I always used to.
I guess its like this guy in Torquay – who seemed to cosider himself a bit of a surf guru – said that for his first year surfing he ate shit and I think about that a lot when I’m out there. Try to keep it in perspective and try to have fun and know that I will get better I just have to stick with it and I try and go out every day even if it’s just for a little while.
So yeah. Life is good. Now I just really need to start looking for a job instead of spending all day every day hanging out at the beach.
Oh AND I finally found the Transmission Fluid Dipstick!!!! Im stoked because the car is running better now that I topped it up!
Guess what I’m in love. But don’t worry mom not with a boy with Maroochy – I haven’t even been here a day and I really love it. The hostel is way better than Bundaberg it’s got a very chilled out vibe which I love and it’s a lot more homey than Cellblock was – plus it’s on the beach.
It was a good drive down despite the fact that the stereo went out for the last hour or so of the trip I couldn’t find a rest area to pull over at to try and sort it out so I kept driving in silence and with periods of me singing random songs loudly. Leaving Bundaberg was harder than I thought I had made some good friends there Jiyoung in particular – this cute asian girl who was in my room at the beginning. We traded contact info and she gave me some tips on where to go picking – hopefully we’ll see each other again.
After checking in I pretty much immediately hopped in the car and headed down to the beach to have a go at the surf. If you remember last time I went surfing I was pretty unsure about my surfing skills and thought maybe I’d lost them or just couldn’t handle the conditions well today when I went surfing I realized that I’m still good at doing what I used to be doing except that the waves here kill me. I mean the conditions haven’t been particularly great the last few times I’ve gone out but today it was just big and fast and heavy and you just take a beating when the wave comes at you, I couldn’t even paddle out today because it so hard. But I did ride some good whiteys so at least I know I can still catch and ride waves I just have to sort out all the stuff that actually makes you a good surfer. Not this walking your board out and hopping on in front of the first wave to come along that looks like it’ll pick you up. I guess that means I’ll just have to practice, hopefully I’ll get something nicer tomorrow morning but if not I’ll make do. It’s so great to be out by the ocean again.
But it’s awesome I really love it here, I’m going to start looking for work tomorrow I think and maybe somewhere to live that’s not a hostel. Although at the same time we’ll have to see because the girl at the hostel said that they might be getting some fruit picking work (well I think it was ginger or lychees or something) coming up so it might be worth it to stick it out at the hostel to see if that comes around because I really want to get my ’specified work’ in. And it would be great to be able to do it while I’m here. Because it’s so awesome here.
Well I guess that’s all for now. Peace out from Maroochy.
Yesterday Glen and I woke up early and drove down to Byron Bay for a day of surfing and so he could check out a ute that if he buys means I get the Haybird.. I’m so stoked. It was a rough morning as we’d been up kinda late having drinks at Neils house but after dragging myself out of bed and into the car the drive went by pretty fast and we had made the 2 hour drive in no time.
On the way down we stopped at a servo to fill up with gas and get some drinks and the guy behind the counter asked me if I was from California to which I said nope Canada and he said well I knew it started with a ‘ca’ which yeah I guess you were close but its kinda random wouldn’t you just ask someone their country, so after that Glen and I were joking around, are you from Arizona, or Broome, WA .. are you from Logan just outside of Brissie?
But I guess it’s kinda cool that I look like I’m from Cali. I used to dream of Cali I had this vision of a california lifestyle, house on the beach surfing every day, being super tanned… but then I realized Cali isn’t really that cool and I could totally have that in Australia, so after that California lost some of that romantisism I had for it. But I still appreciate looking like a California Girl. After all, the Beach Boys said it best, I wish they all could be California Girls..
Anyways, we got to Byron around 8, 9 NSW time, we’d forgotten about the time change. Weird that some states change for Daylight Savings time and some don’t. Glen told me they had a referendum in Queensland and decided to vote against it for some of the same reasons I remember hearing about why WA doesn’t want it – cows and curtain fading. But we got in and checked out Glen’s maybe future Ute, he seemed to like it and drove it back and forth in the car yard a few times – said it would probably be ready to pick up monday or tuesday. So I might finally get my surf car!
Then we drove into the town centre to have some brekkie and rent some boards, we both had Canadian Pancakes which is pancakes with bacon and maple syrup (although at this particular one they also had strawberries) but being a Canadian I can’t say I’ve ever really heard of Canadian Pancakes but I guess it’s cool that we have some kind of distinctly Canadian Cuisine to call our own.
We checked out a few spots on the Bay to surf but it was pretty crap all around and ended up at a place called Watego’s Beach or something which seemed to have the best waves (not that you could really call them good, mostly just choppy with a few breaks here and there) but we drove all that way and we weren’t going home without getting a little wet and wild. So I went out and paddled around a lot and my arms didn’t even get that tired I was pretty impressed with myself, I guess those days swimming laps in the pool are paying off.
It was great surfing without a wetsuit, but the clear water made me a little jumpy when you’d look down and see shadows on the ocean floor and think for a second oh my god a shark but it’s not. Anyway we were out there for probably an hour and a half and I caught maybe one wave, but at least I got one and got to work on my paddling. Glen didn’t really catch anything, but it was pretty shit and he could’ve had a bigger board.
After surfing we stopped at the Beach hotel for some lunch and a beer before heading out to soak up some sunshine on the main beach. By this time the tide had come in and it was a beautiful beach break and boy was I wishing that I still had that board, but it’s alright there’s always next time. We talked about going down for a surf again this week when Tammy and Mitch get here which is awesome BUT now I don’t know if I should drive down to Melbs because if we go surfing on the weekend (sat) I won’t be able to drive. AGH!! So now I’m back to the whole driving/flying dilemma again. Annoying.
It as a really fun day and I slept half the way home and then proceeded to pretty much pass out on the couch after getting home and showering.
And Friday night, Glen, Neil and I went to this free concert to benefit the Sea Sheppards which helps fight Japanese whaling. It was an interesting concert to say the least, the first band pretty much sucked, and then the headliners Red Paintings or something were just weird, before the show started this screen came down and there was a projection of the earth and it had a face on one side and it started talking about all the crap that we were doing to the earth and killing it – it kinda scared me a little. Then we were all joking about how we try to save the earth - ’but I can’t recycle Neils building won’t let me recycle they don’t have bins.. ‘ It was fun.
Then the band. Man they were all dressed up in weird costumes, the singer was painted green with this huge headpiece and octopus legs and then there were ones dressed up like japanese in kimonos and they had these two killer whales that during the performance they proceeded to harpoon and paint red with blood then strung them up and hung them from the ceiling, it was weird to say the least but definitely inspired emotions against whaling.
We went home before the end, it was just too weird, played Tony Hawk for a bit, or maybe it was Need For Speed, I’m pretty awesome at it. I was playing the other night when Neil first got it and he went to have a shower and I did a race and I dominated so of course I had to wait to show him, he thought I’d gotten bored and stopped playing or something because he couldn’t hear the racing anymore but what’s the point of dominating if you can’t tell someone?
So all in all it’s been a pretty great week. And pretty soon (maybe tomorrow???) Tammy and Mitch come up so that should be fun.
Well the law office job is now officially over. It was kind of sad to leave, we went out for lunch on Friday and due to our Parmas taking 45 minutes got our drinks for free, which was awesome as I’d gotten a pint, and even awesomer when they brought our food out and asked if we wanted more drinks, and after making sure it would be free I got a second pint. Sweet as. Granted I was a little buzzed when we got back to the office.
They’re a great group of girls and I had fun working with them and getting the daily goss and picking up their idioms. I felt a little lost once it was all over. Having steady, well paying work made staying in the city tolerable. Not that I don’t like the City but I came here to surf, I came here for the beaches, not to sightsee or be a tourist. I’ve been in the City for 3 months now and I’m getting antsy. I want my car and board and I want to get out there. I love being here with Candice and helping with the wedding stuff, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do.
Which is why I’m totally stoked that I finally worked out my Brissie travel plans. I was stressing because the reason I’m going up there is to visit Glen and go on a catamaran. I didn’t really think about this but of course he has a job and will be working during they days and I’m sure Brissie’s cool but I don’t really want to hang around another city right now. So I decided to fly to Coolangatta on the Gold Coast, stay for 4 nights and head up to Brissie on Thursday and see where it goes from there, I haven’t booked a return ticket yet.
I am so excited, just reading what my hostel says about surfing, the pictures, and the Snapper Superbank.. I’m drooling at the mouth just thinking about it. Not to mention the fact that it should be nice weather and 22 degree water. Now I’m no expert when it comes to water temps but I’ve been surfing in 15 degree water so this will be a treat, I may not even need a wetsuit. Cooly sounds like a dream come true.
Now I just have to get through the rest of the week, and then we go to the races on Saturday! And on Sunday I take off for paradise.
I had a great weekend in Torquay despite having a bit of a meltdown as I lay in bed unable to sleep on friday night. As I stood on the beach Saturday morning in the hot sun staring out at the breaking waves with a board in my hand I couldn’t help but grin and I knew this was exactly where I was meant to be.
It was a beautiful day and the surfing conditions were perfect for me. Nice clean breaking waves with a long period and enough time between sets to paddle out. It was grouse.
So I was out there doing my thing, catching some waves, eating shit – and I met this guy and he asks me if it’s my first day (am I really doing that badly?) I tell him no I’ve been doing it for a little while but I’m still getting the hang of it. So he decides he’s gonna help me out and give me some pointers.
First thing he makes me paddle, a lot, surfing back home in Washington I almost never paddle, we just walk out into the waves and hop on the board and go when you see a wave coming at you. Big mistake because a) you need to start paddling for the waves a lot sooner than I ever got a chance to, and b) you don’t have a chance to get balanced on your board and are in too much of a rush therefore falling off when you try to get up.
So he got me paddling around on my board, paddling out and paddling back around to get in position and paddling for the waves – more paddling than I have ever done before in my life. It’s good though because 90% of surfing is paddling and it was about time I started doing it. In conclusion the guy was totally awesome for helping me out and I really made progress and found it a lot easier to stand up and stay up after that. Although it wasn’t very long before my arms felt like complete jello and it didn’t matter how hard I tried I just couldn’t get that last blast of speed to put me onto the waves.
Lesson learned I packed up and lay down in the sun for a while to rest before trekking back to the hostel with my board and all my gear, exhausted but completely happy. I spent the rest of the afternoon checking out some of the surf outlets until the other surfers got back and we hung out in the back yard and had some beers until dinner was ready.
A lot more backpackers arrived and the hostel was jumping that night, everyone hung around outside, and a couple of us more beginner surfers sat down with this Italian guy who moved to Melbs about 3 years ago to surf and he shared a lot of his surfing and life wisdom with us and gave us some tips.
I finally crawled into bed around midnight and set my alarm for early as I’d agreed to go out for a morning surf with two Canadian girls who were staying in my room. At six in the morning I dragged myself out of bed and into my swimmers and got all my stuff together and we piled everything in the car and took off.
I’d read the surf forecast on friday and wasn’t expecting great things for the day but thought it would still be worth riding but when we pulled up to Torquay Surf Beach and looked out and the beach it was flat. Nothing. So we decided to go to Jan Juc maybe it would be better. The parking lot was empty when we pulled in and we knew it was gonna be bad, it was and we debated going home to bed but decided to go check out Bells just in case I mean we had got up at six in the morning for this and it was our last day. So we drove out to Bells and saw some roos on the way but when we got there it was more of the same, nothing.
So we drove back to the Hostel and sat in the car and ate snacks and talked shit. After a while we decided we couldn’t sit around any longer and headed off down the Great Ocean Road for a bit of a drive and we would check out the surf on the way down and see if there was anything rideable.. but there wasn’t so eventually somwhere around the historical marker we turned around and headed back to Torquay. We stopped off in Anglesea to check out the surf shop and grab some coffees then made our way back to the hostel where we had brekkie and talked to the rest of the gang about their morning surf.
Deciding that we had to go out, even if it’s just for a bit of a paddle, we headed out once again, two of the German guys in tow, to Jan Juc. It was still bad and choppy and just a mess, but we went anyways. I lasted about an hour and caught maybe one wave and did a bit of paddling about but it was just no good. Rebecca stayed out the longest and came back to the car well after we’d all changed and were relaxing in the warm car.
If a guy wears a wetsuit he will often not wear anything underneath it which is understandable, but usually when taking it off you try and keep it a bit discreet I suppose might be the word. Anyways we’re sitting in the car waiting for Rebecca to finish changing and these guys had just got back from a surf and start getting changed and of course we’re checking them out because surfer guys are hot and before we know it this one guy had just peeled out of his wetsuit and was standing there junk hanging out, ass bare to the world Tara and I just kinda looked at each other like what the hell and Rebecca grins and does the Hungry Jacks (Burger King) hand thing from the commercial and we all just laughed. It was pretty funny. That is the more awkward part of surfing, changing in the parking lot without exposing yourself to the world, it takes a while to get the hang of.
If there’s one thing this weekend made me realize it’s that I love the surfing life, well I kind of already knew that but this weekend just cemented it. And I’ve got the hair for it, the curly mess that I always hated has been vindicated, in Westport before heading over the guy at The Surf Shop told me I had a classic surfer grom look and yesterday one of the girls complimented my salty windblown curls. I love it.
Now I am looking into buying a car because not only would it make surfing a lot easier but it will help me with finding fruit picking work and allow me to buy a board and take it around with me once I start travelling around and want to head up the coast. It will just make life a lot more convenient. The only thing now is finding a cheap car with registration.
And thanks to a Danish girl at the hostel I finally found the Australian equivalent of Craigslist – Gumtree. It’s weird but I’ve kind of been lost without it. Being in a new city where I don’t really know anyone or anywhere and it’s just a great resource to find and sell things, meet people, arrange rideshares, look for jobs, whatever.
Well now I’m down to my last week at the Law Firm and although I like the pay check it will be nice to be done. I can plan my next move which will probably be down the Great Ocean Road or fruit picking.
Filed under: Australia, Living & Working Abroad, Melbourne Adventures, Surfing
I just can’t stay away from the waves and so today after work I’m hopping the train down to Torquay so I can spend the weekend SURFING and hanging out with backpackers at a hostel. My first hostel stay in Australia and while I’m really not planning on partying it up you never really can tell what will happen when thrown in with a bunch of backpackers.
Also I hate Melbourne trains and I hate being a train commuter and I can’t wait to be finished this job just so I no longer have to travel at peak hours. It’s always crowded, late, or late and crowded and I just can’t take it anymore. I also don’t get how people in MX always see hotties on the train all I ever get is weirdos or smelly people – gross.
It’s racing carnival time in Melbourne. I’ve never been to horse races before and for the Melbourne races you get dressed to the nines and don hats and fascinators and go out in class. My first time at the races will be exceptionally classy as Eden’s dad got us tickets to the members only section where we will be served a 3-course meal and all booze is included in the ticket (which set me back almost $200) but considering what you normally pay to get into races, plus drinks I figure I’m pretty much coming out even. Who knows I may even be able to start going for one of my goals for Australia – namely marry rich Australian to stay in the country and not have to worry about work.
When considering my other Australia goals include being really tanned, getting sunbleached hair, living on a beach and surfing every day and working on a sheep farm – it seems a bit out there. And while it was mostly a joke I wouldn’t put it past myself to up and do something like that.
So there you go, that’s pretty much the word on the street lately. I’m totally stoked about surfing this weekend.
This past weekend Candice decided we should go down to Torquay, she loves it down there and I’ve been dying to go since I got to Australia. In short I was stoked and could not wait. This would be my first time surfing since I got here. My entire reason for being here – well maybe not my ENTIRE reason.
Friday rolls around and I race excited home from work. Throw my stuff in a bag and Candice and I set off for Geelong where Eden’s friend Rob lives and where we would be staying for the night. I got to drive.
That night after we got into Geelong and found Rob’s house (Eden wrote down the directions wrong) we packed into the car and headed out for my first glimpse of Torquay – but it was dark by the time we got there and my first impression wasn’t all that impressed. We drove down to the beach, parked, and I went and stuck my feet in the ocean for the first time since being in Australia. It was a great feeling.
After that we headed off to find some dinner and were going to eat in Torquay but the place we stopped was too expensive for my liking so we drove back to a pub we saw just outside of Geelong for some pub grub. We spent the next hour or two watching Sex in the City before heading off to bed.
We headed out fairly early the next morning wanting to make the most of our day and pretty soon we were stopped at the mall of surf shops that line the road upon entering Torquay. We each made our sale rack purchases then headed off in search of somewhere to hire a board, I was a little worried about how we would transport the surfboard as Candice’s car has no roof rack but the guy at the rental place just rolled down the window and stuck it across the back seat – sweet!
We got to the beach and it was pretty flat, it took a long time for me to find anything that was even rideable and there were long breaks between rideable sets. Finally I gave up and went back to Candice on the beach and we decided it was time to go to another beach. That was when we found the actual surfbeach which was just on the other side of the point and it was going off. This is what I had been waiting for. It was a lot different than anything I’d ever riden before, bigger, and the waves were more spaced out which was nice. After a couple hours I had caught a few waves and bit it more than a few times and exhausted and hungry rode the waves in to shore to go find Candice and go get some food.
We decided to drive down the Great Ocean Road a bit further, check out some other beaches and maybe go to Anglesea. We tried to go to the famous Bells Beach but after parking and following the path we thought would lead us to the beach we seemed to be going nowhere and turned around and went back to the car – maybe next time – and continued driving down to Anglesea where I got a supermarket dinner of coleslaw and bean salad and beer. Then we parked beside the road overlooking the ocean to eat our dinners. Side note- weird rules here, if you’re not driving you are legally allowed to drink in the car. So I had a beer on the way back home.
We got back from the beach about 7:30 Saturday night, I’d come up with a great plan to go see a movie and try and use my free Gold Class upgrades which we didn’t but we did end up seeing the House Bunny which besides being a little over the top was pretty cute and fun. Sunday morning I woke up early and went for a run then headed off to the store to pick up some veggies, before changing into my swimmers and lying out on the driveway for a bit of a suntan and a beer. After that things turned sour and I started getting bored and thinking about how I had to go back to work on Monday and that I wish I was still in Torquay b/c I could be surfing instead of lying around the house – the fact that I was stiff and sore from Saturdays exertions probably didn’t help. I got cranky and sad and all I wanted was to be back on the beach, surfboard in hand carving up some waves or just biting it big time I didn’t care. I realized then I should never have left. But sometimes you have to make sacrifices and I do need the money.
So here I am, back in the city, back at work, dreaming of the next time I’ll get to go back for a surf. Which will probably be this weekend. I can’t wait.
